Temple Beth Zion Discovery Israel Trip, March 9 to 19, 2008

David S. Woodruff

The Temple Beth Zion Israel Tour was conducted by Rabbi Moshe Waldoks and Keshet, The Center for Educational Tourism in Israel.

Sunday, March 9

When we got to Logan we found that our flight to Newark had been canceled. One person of our tour had gotten there much earlier than us, and was in tears. The airline had given her a new ticket for a flight on the next day. But through hard work on Moshe's and Larry's part, we finally had a solution. Continental booked us all on an U. S. Air flight to La Guardia, and vouchers for three cabs that would take us to Newark airport. We arrived I think an hour before our flight, and we were able to get through security in time.

When the tour was being planned and I saw that we were going to use Continental to Newark and then to Tel Aviv, I thought back to the numbers of times Judith and I had taken a similar route to Berlin, and once to Ireland, and had gotten screwed. At least half the time we took that route we lost a day or had major anxiety making the flights.

Monday March 10

Arrived at Tel Aviv's Ben Gurion Airport. I nearly lost our luggage by leaving it on a cart in the arrival's hall as the tour walked out through security. I was distracted by the fact that guards had pulled aside one of our members. Luckily, though, with the help of Marty Freidlander, our Keshet guide, we located some woman with Keshet who didn't hesitate to walk back through security into the arrival hall, managing to fetch the cart. All was well... the cart hadn't even been touched. Judith and I then joined the rest of group that had already gotten on the bus. 16 people on the tour, a tour guide, an armed guard and the bus driver, on a bus with perhaps 60 seats.

We drove to Tel Aviv, about a 40 minute drive, and met Ayesha, Barbara and Reggie at Independence Hall.

Interior of Independence Hall and Bauhaus Architecture
They had come a few days early to do some touring on their own. Tel Aviv has a few rather nice skyscrapers, but the areas near Independence hall really show a great deal of Bauhaus architecture, a German style that came to an abrupt end in Germany with the rise of the Nazis. Next time someone complains about the shabbiness of houses in Havana, you can tell them they are also very shabby in Tel Aviv, a perfectly good capitalist city.

At Independence Hall we were treated to a very moving presentation of the events surrounding the day May 14, 1948 when David Ben Gurion declared the Establishment of the State of Israel in the very hall where we were sitting. The presenter set the scene perfectly, telling about the events that preceded and the events that followed. Just before Ben Gurion read the statement, which is reproduced in the booklet, those assembled broke out singing Hatikva, "The Hope", the anthem of Israel "In the Jewish heart/ A Jewish spirit still sings/ And the eyes look east/ Toward Zion/ Our hope is not lost,/ Our hope of two thousand years./ To be a free nation in our land,/ In the land of Zion and Jerusalem". I was very moved by the experience, and gained a great appreciation for Israel, even with the trip hardly beginning!

After leaving Independence Hall we spent some time in a Market which I think is the HaCarmel Market, stretching from Alenbi Street toward the Mediterranean Sea. The pomegranates have to be seen to be believed... bigger than grapefruits!

Tel Aviv Market Cart
It is a typical Middle Eastern Market, very busy and crowded, but without the usual guys outrageously trying to hook you in. We had that in the Cardo in Jerusalem! I have a great picture of one of the tour members being escorted across the street toward the bus after her trip to a public bathroom by our armed guard. The guard was very good at keeping up the end of the pack, and helping to round up stragglers.

One of the tour members thought we spent much too much time at markets and shops, but I didn't feel that way. I was happy the shopping stops were fewer than they could have been.

Following the market we took a long ride north to Mount Carmel, which is a long ridge that starts inland and terminates at Haifa. We made a stop at the Mukrachah, the Carmelite Monastery on Mount Carmel, where it is believed that Elijah had his battle with the priests of Ba'al. Reb. Moshe gave a talk there.

Rabbi Moshe's Talk
During the presentation we heard seraphic singing nearby... turned out probably to be a choir from a group of visiting Christians who were trying out the acoustics in a nearby chapel. After Moshe's talk, we strolled around, overlooking the Jezreel Valley, and stopping to admire wild flowers that were blooming in the garden. It was still early March... we weren't used to flowers!

Then we re-boarded the bus and drove to the end of Mount Carmel to enjoy the marvelous view of Haifa viewed from the top of the Bahai'i gardens.

Finally we arrived at our Hotel, The Palm Beach Hotel, in Acco, rested a bit and then enjoyed a welcome dinner at a local shish kabob restaurant. A word to the wise... don't do a lot of eating at these things. There is one course after another. It ain't over till you get huge skewers of shish kabob.

The Baha'i Gardens and Haifa

Tuesday, March 11

Yesterday set the pace for the day, and this morning set the pace for the mornings. Wake up call at 6:45, breakfast at 7:30 and bus at 8:00. Today Marty started us off with something not on the agenda... a walk through the crusader city of Acco. "After the Crusaders wrested Acco from the Arabs they completely redesigned the town and made it three times as large as the modern walled city's center. They enclosed the new area in huge walls with towers and a moat. It is the original Crusader design of Acco which is still visible today and accounts for its Medieval appearance of low houses and narrow streets; even though most of the walls and buildings have been reconstructed by the Turks." (2) The trip was greatly enhanced by this outing... we all enjoyed it. You really begin to get the sense of Israel in history.

In the Crusader City

The next stop was Rosh Hanikrah on the Lebanese border, white chalk cliffs with many caves. The story is told how during WWII the British built a railway through the chalk cliffs to facilitate the movement of goods from Egypt to the port of Beirut. When the British withdrew in 1948, Israeli forces took over Rosh Hanikrah, and the Palmach blew up the railway bridges in the grottoes to prevent the Lebanese army from invading when the War of Independence began (3). As we left several bus loads of Israeli Arab kids from Cana arrived to view the grottoes.

Rosh Hanikrah

Our next stop was the Druze village of Peki'in. We visited the cave where according to tradition R. Shimon bar Yochai hid from the Romans in 161 CE for many years, and wrote the Zohar. The cave now is too small to enter, but tradition has it that an earthquake caused the roof to collapse. The cave is in a beautiful shady grotto, assessable by stairs on the side of a hill. After visiting the cave we made a stop at the shop of a local Druze merchant who gave us a brief introduction to his people and sold us some products. We then spent some time, and money, at the soap factory of Savta Jimalya.

The road between Peki'in and Zefat, our next stop, is truly spectacular. We drove through a beautiful country side with large rolling hills, which reminded me a bit of Ireland. Ha Galil, The Galilee, is truly beautiful, and you can appreciate how it was the setting for so much history in the Tanakh and the Christian Bible, as well as the ages of the Rabbis.

Zefat and the Shop of Avrahom

In Zefat we had lunch, and did some shopping. We visited the synagogues of Yosef Karo and Ari z''l, and did some meditation. We visited the shop of a local Kabbalist artist, Avrahom Loewenthal. One of the four Holy Cities (along with Jerusalem, Hebron and Tiberias) even though it was of no real Jewish importance until the 16th century, Zefat was home to the first printing press in the middle east in 1577. Rabbi Yosef Karo codified the disputes of the Talmud in the 'Shulchan Aruch'. Rabbi Issac Luria developed the Kabbalah here. The poem 'Lecha Dodi', and the Kabbalat Shabbat service of Friday night originated from the Kabbalist community in Zefat.

During the day we caught glimpses of the Sea of Galilee. We ended the day at Hotel Lavi, a Kibbutz based hotel. That evening we had a meeting with one of the Kibbutz leaders.

Wednesday, March 12

We spent most of the day in the Golan Heights, an extinct volcanic plateau, last eruption about 15,000 years ago. We saw volcanic cones, some with military installations on top and tank traps carved around them. We saw Mount Hermon still with snow in March. We crossed the Jordan River and started to encounter fields with land mines. We passed a dug-in Syrian bunker complex, which is now a tourist attraction. Much of the Golan is militarized, but there are some towns... not heavily populated. Compared to much of Israel, the Golan Heights is lush, and there are old agricultural terraces here and there, and modern agricultural works.

Volcanic Cone with Tank Trap

Our first stop of the day was the Golan Archaeological Museum in Katzrin. "It displays various findings from the Golan heights, including Hebrew inscriptions from ancient synagogues in the area. There is a special hall devoted to the heroic history of Gamla." (4) The history of Gamla is presented in an audiovisual shown in an auditorium. The siege and fall to the Romans of Gamla had been documented by Josephus. "He describes Gamla as the city situated atop a hill resembling a camel, surrounded by high cliffs. On its steep slopes houses were built very close to one another, and the city seemed to be hung in the air at a sharp summit, ready to fall down on itself. In 66 CE the residents of Gamla joined the Jewish Revolt against the Romans. Under the direction of Josephus, they expeditiously constructed a wall. In the eastern side of the city, the wall descended from a circular watchtower on top of the hill, and continued downward until it approached Nahal Daliot. It encircled the city's eastern buildings, including Gamla's magnificent synagogue." (5) In 68 CE when Josephus was already a prisoner of the Romans, Gamla fell to the Romans after a bloody siege. "In 1968, Itzhak Gal -- a participant in a Sites and Landscapes Survey in the Golan -- first suggested that an isolated cliff near Nahal Dalyot is a site of Gamla. In 1976, the archaeologist Shemaryahu Gutmann, together with Gal, began to excavate here. His excavations not only verified that this was Gamla; they also uncovered many amazing finds. Gutmann discovered the remains of the wall from the time of the Great Revolt; the place where the Romans breached the wall; the city's exquisite synagogue; several houses from one of Gamla's residential neighborhoods; and evidence of the fierce battle that took place here". (5)

The next stop was a visit to the Golan Heights Winery, which was founded in 1983 in Katzrin. It is the largest winery I have visited, and we enjoyed the request wine tasting. Judith and I bought some bottles, some of which we shipped to Berlin for the kids. For a brief review of some of its product, see (6).

A Wine Tasting: Golan Heights Winery

We had lunch at a restaurant run by an IDF Reserve Colonel who gave us a briefing in sight of the Syrian border. He didn't say anything I didn't know. After that we visited a local artillery fire base, which had no guns, only some shells. There were three soldiers who we left loaded down with our gifts. I and a couple of others had gotten baseball caps with "Red Sox" logos in Hebrew lettering. I had thought "Red Sox" was in Hebrew, but actually it was Yiddish! It took a while for the three soldiers to materialize, and Judith Cohen exclaimed "We could have taken over the entire base!"

On the Artillery Base

We made a stop at the Na'ot factory store in a Kibbutz, and then had an hour's free time in the town of Tiberias on the Sea of Galilee (Lake Kinneret). We got there as night was falling. Tiberias is a party town with a glitzy center and lots of young people... I'm not clear what the town is for! Most people felt that the stop at the Na'ot factory was a waste of time.

Sea of Galilee in Early Evening

Tonight we spent our last of two nights in Kibbutz Lavi Hotel.

Thursday, March 13

Leaving Hotel Lavi Judy Cohen's luggage was accidentally placed on a bus headed for Africa, and Barbara was reprimanded by Marty for being late getting to the bus. She had to make a bathroom stop, and she ribbed him for days for his unreasonableness. We first stopped at Zippori, a fabulous archaeological site of what was once a Roman capital city of Ha Galil. On the road to Zippori, we passed through Cana, site of the miracle of water to wine, and saw in the distance high rise apartments of Nazareth.

Cana and High Rise Buildings of Nazareth

"The city of Zippori (Sepphoris), described by the first century CE Jewish historian, Josephus Flavius, as "the ornament of all Galilee," is located on a hill in the Lower Galilee, midway between the Mediterranean and Lake Kinneret (Sea of Galilee), with abundant spring water and a fertile valley around it. Zippori is mentioned in many Jewish sources of the first centuries of the Common Era. Founded in the Hellenistic era, it was named the administrative capital of Galilee by Gabinius, the Roman governor, in the mid-first century BCE. The city did not join the revolt against Rome in 66 CE; it opened its gates to the legions of the Roman Emperor Vespasian and was thus saved. On coins minted in Zippori at that time, the city is named Eirenopolis, "city of peace." Later, its name was changed to Diocaesarea in honor of Zeus and the emperor. By the second century, Zippori had become the center of Jewish religious and spiritual life in the Land of Israel. The Sanhedrin (supreme Jewish religious and judicial body), headed by Rabbi Yehuda Hanasi, was located in Zippori at the beginning of the third century; at this time Jews constituted the majority of the town's population. Even after the seat of the Sanhedrin was moved to Tiberias, Zippori remained a center of Bible study and notable sages taught in its numerous academies. The discovery of rich, figurative mosaics during excavations at Zippori provide evidence of the Roman character of the city's pagan population, which coexisted in harmony with the Jews during the period of economic prosperity in the late Roman period. Zippori was destroyed in 363 by an earthquake, but was rebuilt soon thereafter, retaining its social and spiritual centrality in Jewish life in the Galilee." (7)

Model of Zippori and Zippori's Cardo, a Main Road

Much remains of the ruins of the old Roman city with many beautiful tile floors, and a small but very solid Crusader fort at the top. The main town street is evident with its wagon ruts in the heavy stone pavement. There are ruins of an old 6th century synagogue with very beautiful mosaic floors showing many of the symbols and Hebrew texts that we are familiar with today.

Floor Mosaics in Zippori and the Crusader Fort

The bus then took us to Kibbutz Ein Dor (recall Saul's visit to the witch of Endor), where we had lunch and then a visit with Aryeh Malkin, one of the founders. On the road to Ein Dor, we passed Mount Tabor, "believed by many to be the site of the Transfiguration of Christ and site for the battle between Barak and the army of Jabin, commanded by Sisera" (8). Aryeh told us the stirring story of his adventures going to Israel at the end of WWII, which involved learning how to be a sailor on a British destroyer that was purchased by the Hagannah to run the British blockade into Israel. He talked for an hour, and I recorded it on my Palm Tungsten T3. I hope to transcribe parts of the talk. Aryeh also told of contacts that the Kibbutz is having with their Arab neighbors in workshops where all work together. "The atmosphere at the meetings of adults and children is one of study, working together, playing together and building things together...". See (9).

Aryeh Malkin and Marty Freidlander

After our stay at Ein Dor we took the long drive to Jerusalem. The bus took us west to the coast roads, then south, then east to Jerusalem along the Tel Aviv to Jerusalem connecting roads. Apparently there are no safe or good roads that go directly south through the West Bank to Jerusalem. The natural way to go would have seemed to be to follow the course of the Jordan River.

We were greatly slowed down by a long traffic jam just south of Tel Aviv. When we got to the cause, we found a completely burned out bus sitting in the right lane. Surely it wasn't terrorism, else we would have heard of it. Probably just another New York to Boston Fung Wah bus.

Because of the traffic jam, we were late getting into Jerusalem. It was nearly dark, and we didn't visit the Western Wall that day. We did stop at Mt. Scopus though, and said 'Shehechiyanu'. Our Yellow guide book has several poems to Jerusalem that I am tempted to reproduce here, but won't. In the book that we are currently reading for the TBZ book club the dedication is to a person who died in a terrorist attack on Mt. Scopus in 2002. Makes me appreciate that we had an armed guard.

Jerusalem from Mount Scopus. Early Evening

We stayed for the next three nights at the King Solomon Hotel. That evening at the hotel we had a visit from R. Levi Lauer, Founding Executive Director of ATZUM in Jerusalem, a network of volunteers who give assistance to survivors of terror, support to righteous gentiles, those who helped Jews during the Shoah, and the combating of human trafficking.

Friday, March 14

I started to come down with a cold on this day which plagued me for the rest of the tour. In the morning we visited the Haas Promenade with its spectacular panoramic view of Jerusalem. We then visited a check point, where, against advice, many of us took pictures. The check point consisted of a large door in a very tall wall... I'm not sure what section of Jerusalem was walled off. Our friends Yoel and Dahlia who live in Jerusalem are very much against the walls.

Jerusalem from the Haas Promenade

We then made a visit to the "City of David", an archaeological dig (10) (11) on the southeastern side of the plateau on which the Old City lies. We were given a talk by (Danny Erlich ?), one of the directors of Keshet. His parents met at Temple Beth Zion! Below us was the Gihon Spring and below and to the right the Kidron Valley, and across from us a bit to the left was the Mount of Olives. The Mount of Olives seems to be a mass of grave sites, not surprising, since legend has it that here is where the dead will rise first at the Second Coming. This archaeological site seems to be in part an attempt to discover traces of the kingship of David. Many local residents are upset because of the disruption to housing, this being now a very heavily populated Palestinian area.
City of David and the Kidron Valley

We then walked to the Old City, entering through the Dung Gate, passing the El Aqsa Mosque, and on to the Western Wall. I felt cheated because I had left my kippah and prayer shawl at the Hotel, not knowing we were going to make this visit. I had to make use of one of the cardboard kippot that are kept at hand for novices. The Western Wall has a section for men and a much smaller section for women. I think the woman's section is smaller because of some construction project that is ongoing. While I was close to the Western Wall, thinking of each of my brothers and sisters, I was approached twice by well dressed schnorrers, and I must confess I gave a little bit each time. After the visit we walked to the Cardo for a little shopping time in the Jewish Quarter. The Cardo is the reconstructed main street of Byzantine Jerusalem from the 6th century. There is both Jewish shops, and down at an end that goes into a maze of streets, Arabic shops.
The Wall, Rabbi Moshe Waldoks, and a Group Photo

That evening we celebrated Kabbalat Shabbat at the Western Wall. The place was crowded with people celebrating, and there were emergency vehicles parked nearby in case of any trouble. The tour held a brief service outside of the segregated area, then Moshe, John and I joined with a group of young men who were praying, singing and dovening... quite a festive affair! I used the 'Siddur Hadash' from the Temple which I had been using at home. I have returned it to TBZ with an inscription saying that it had been used for Kabbalat Shabbat at the Western Wall. Afterward we had a great dinner at the Hotel, followed by singing. It was funny to see that the dining hall seemed to be separated into two parts; one with big tables for groups which seemed to want to sing, and the other with tables for four with quiet diners. There were many Christian groups touring Jerusalem, and maybe they were the ones at the tables for four.

Saturday, March 15

Today was Shabbat, so I took no pictures. Several of us took a cab to the Jerusalem Great Synagogue (12) on King George Street. Judy felt at home there because it reminded her of the kind of services that she went to as a youngster with her Grandmother. Men were in the sanctuary, and women were in the balcony. The place is very beautiful and ornate. There is a large collection of mezuzot (13) in the entrance gallery which was donated by a person Judith was acquainted with from Hippocrates Health Institute.

Then we walked to the Italian Synagogue on Hillel Street (14) spending some time there. Again, men were in the sanctuary, and women in the balcony, but in this case the balcony was almost enclosed... only some panels opened downward to allow viewing by women of the sanctuary. The synagogue, which was built in the early 18th Century in Congeliano near Venice, was moved to Jerusalem stone by stone in the 1950's. There is a museum across a plaza from it, the U. Nahon Museum of Italian Jewish Art, which is supposed to be spectacular, but it isn't open on Shabbat.

Finally we walked back to the Hotel where there was a very delicious Shabbat luncheon. There was a walking tour in the afternoon to the Church of the Holy Sepulcher in the Christian Quarter of the Old City which Judith and I didn't go on, because I was sick with the cold, and we were both exhausted. We slept through the afternoon.

During the British Mandate a municipal ordinance was passed, which remains in effect, requiring all new buildings in Jerusalem to be faced with stone. As far as I can see, Jerusalem stone is used exclusively, giving the city a romantic cream-colored or golden appearance.

Jerusalem Old City Wall, Late Afternoon

Sunday, March 16

We loaded our suitcases on the bus, and set off for Yad Vashem, not far from Ein Kerem, where Yoel and Dahlia live. Yad Vashem (15) is the Israel people's memorial to the 6 million Jews murdered in the Holocaust. It contains the world's largest repository of information on the Holocaust. We spent a good deal of our time in the 'New Museum' which consists of the Holocaust History Museum, the Museum of Holocaust Art and the Exhibitions Pavilion. Marty was extremely effective as a guide. He used a transmitter with a mike, and we all had headphones.

Yad Vashem Entrance

The Hall of Names (17) is an imposing circular space... "The main circular hall houses the extensive collection of short biographies of each Holocaust victim. Over two million pages are stored in the circular repository around the outer edge of the Hall, with room for six million in all. The ceiling of the Hall is composed of a ten-meter high cone reaching skywards, displaying 600 photographs and "Pages of Testimony" -- short biographies of each Holocaust victim. This exhibit represents a fraction of the murdered six million men, women and children from the diverse Jewish world destroyed by the Nazis and their accomplices. The victims' portraits are reflected in water at the base of an opposing cone carved out of the mountain's bedrock." The space is truly awe inspiring.

Another breath-taking exhibit is the Children's Memorial (18). It consists of a totally darkened space in which hundreds of candles can be seen in many mirrors, as a voice recites the names of young victims. The senses go beyond claustrophobia into eternity. See reference (19) for a You Tube experience of the Memorial.

After Yad Vashem we drove a short distance to Mount Herzl, the cemetery for national figures. We visited the graves of Theodor Herzl, Yizhak Rabin and Ze'ev Jabotinsky.

Resting Place of Theodore Herzl

Then we boarded the bus for the long drive to the Dead Sea. The route went straight eastward through the West Bank. We stopped at a place to do a little shopping and to visit a bored looking camel. Many pictures were taken of those of us who were brave enough to mount up. Shortly after, we passed Jerico on our left. Leaving the West Bank we passed through a check point and proceeded south along the Jordan River Valley. On our left was the valley and then, after a while, the Dead Sea. On our right were cliffs and hills of various heights going up to the Judean Heights. Occasionally we would pass the tents and shacks of Bedouin. Once I saw caves cut in the cliffs on the right, and I imagined they might be like the ones where the Dead Sea scrolls were found. The left, toward the river, was quite barren, except for an occasional plantation, until we started driving next to the Dead Sea, when vegetation became as sparse as on the right near the cliffs. The Dead Sea is divided into two parts, and an impossibly regular channel connects them. Perhaps the channel is dredged.

On the Road to the Dead Sea

As we approached our stop the air became less blue and more yellowish, no doubt due to sandstorms to the south. Spring is the time for the sands storms in Egypt and southern Israel, and the southern part of Dead Sea is due east of the northern most part of the Egyptian border with Israel.

We stopped for the night at the Prima Oasis Hotel at Ein Bokek on the Dead Sea. It is one of a dozen or so hotels that pop up out of nowhere on the Dead Sea coast, probably based on an oasis. We checked in, donned our bathing suits and plunged into the Sea. 'Plunge' probably isn't the word... I definitely feel you can't get below the surface because the water is so buoyant. The water is 30% salt compared to the oceans, which are 3%. I have a photo that someone took of Barbara, Ayesha, Judith and I, and we look like we are lying in water that is only a few inches deep! The water feels silky (some might say 'slimy'), and was very clear; it was easy to see the bottom. It was also very easy to swim in, since swim stokes took you a great deal further and faster than in the ocean.

Floating in the Dead Sea (Photo by Reggie Silverman)

The Dead Sea lies 1400 feet below sea level in the African Rift Valley, the lowest point on the surface of the earth on dry land. The Mountains of Moab are visible across the sea in Jordan. There is a wealth of information in reference (20).

The Prima Oasis Hotel is a little strange. It seems to be inhabited mostly by Russians, and in the lounge the woman behind the bar didn't know what scotch was. John Powell said it was like a bad Russian bar in Brighton; I'll take his word for it. I had to make do with ouzo, which was in one of the few bottles that I could see on the shelf behind her. John told me that they also had vodka... of course! My Israeli friend at MIT told me that I should have asked for whiskey, then I would probably have gotten scotch. Also a request for American whiskey would have produced bourbon.

Monday, March 17

In the morning we left the hotel and drove north to Masada (21), located very near the Dead Sea. We were told that the view of the Dead Sea is spectacular from Masada, but because of the dust in the air we never saw it. When we arrived at the base of Masada we found a fresh fruit market, a cafe, and a large tourist shop. After spending some time at these places we set off on the cable car for the top of Masada. The car passed over one of the Roman siege camps and the siege wall that surrounds Masada. The siege camp that we passed near in the cable car had been reconstructed, but not much needs to be done to any of the others; they are so well preserved in the dry climate.

Roman Siege Camps and the Siege Wall

At the top, we spent time walking about the ruins of the old Herodian fortress, built between 37 and 31 BCE. "Herod, the master builder 'furnished this fortress as a refuge for himself.' It included a casement wall around the plateau, storehouses, large cisterns ingeniously filled with rainwater, barracks, palaces and an armory." (21) In 73 CE Masada was the scene of a famous Jewish resistance against Roman rule (22). "The Romans established camps at the base of Masada, laid siege to it and built a circumvallation wall. They then constructed a rampart of thousands of tons of stones and beaten earth against the western approaches of the fortress and, in the spring of the year 74 CE, moved a battering ram up the ramp and breached the wall of the fortress." (21) Two survivors told Josephus the story of how the defenders decided to burn the fortress and end their own lives.

Herodian Fortress. It's Synagogue.

We saw many storerooms, armories, a mikva and a room with the remains of a Roman fresco. We visited the remains of a synagogue. We saw ruins of an ancient dove cot, and ballista stones. All quite well preserved because of the two thousand years in the dry climate. Below on the face of the northern projection of the plateau was Herod's Palace. We didn't descend to see it, but we took pictures from above, and there was a model of it that we viewed. We walked down a path next to the Roman siege ramp, a ridge of earth piled up by the Romans built to reach the fortress from its lowest side. The walk is lovely, and the views were great, despite the dust in the air. We passed a group of kids coming up the other way. Many of them were Ethiopian Jews.

The Roman Siege Ramp

We then drove up and out of the rift valley to the Negev Desert, and to the desert development town of Yeruham. The film "The Band's Visit" was shot in Yeruham, and the film shows an extreme example of the dusty haze that was accompanying us in the Negev. At Yeruham we were given a presentation by the Mayor, Mitzner. Mitzner had been a very popular elected Mayor of Haifa, and had governed there for 9 or 10 years. He was assigned to Yeruham by the Ministry of Interior to clean the place up after a period of governmental corruption and failure. We had lunch at the house of a resident of Yeruham, a Moroccan Jew, one of the original settlers, who had immigrated there (I think) in 1953.

Mayor Mitzner of Yaruham

We then visited the grave of David Ben Gurion at the house he had built to promote the colonization of the desert (23... this reference also has a bio of Ben Gurion). It overlooks the Wilderness of Zin, a spectacular view. "The kibbutz [Sede Boqer] has close associations with David Ben-Gurion, Israel's first prime minister. When Ben-Gurion resigned in 1953 he joined the young kibbutz in order, as he said, to do 'what was really important': that is, to develop the Negev. Fourteen months later, however, he returned to politics, first as minister of defense and then as prime minister for a second time. In 1963, at the age of 77, he finally retired to Sede Boqer, which then became a focal point of Israeli political life. He died in 1973 and was buried in the kibbutz." (24) The grave of Ben Gurion had a wreath of Flowers that had been placed there the day before by Angela Merkal, the Chancellor of Germany. We also met Mark, a cousin of Susan's, who is a scientist working there on desert agriculture.

David Ben Gurion House and Grave. Wilderness of Zin

We finished the day with a drive to Mitzpeh Ramon ("Ramon Lookout"), the southern most point of our tour, a town built on the rim of Maktesh Ramon ("Crater Ramon"). There we stayed at probably the nicest hotel of our trip, the Pundak Ramon. Judith and I had a lovely suite of rooms that we stayed in. The hotel was created by converting two 1960s development town apartment blocks (see "The Band's Visit" for an example of these), and has a nice indoor pool. The evening's event was a desert stargazing and a talk by R. Moshe on Elijah and the desert. I enjoyed the second event, but the first was made impossible by the dust in the air.

Maktesh Ramon (25) is a smaller version of the Grand Canyon, and we peered over the edge at a lookout spot, but much of its spectacular beauty was obscured by the dust.

Maktesh Ramon

Tuesday, March 18

There was a Shacharit service early in the morning overlooking the Maktesh led by Moshe, but I slept in because of my cold. We then had a breakfast and set out for the long drive back to Tel Aviv. On the way to Tel Aviv we passed not far from Beersheba, which is quite large.

Back in Tel Aviv we visited Rabbi Roberto Arbib in Neve Tzedek. Neve Tzedek (26) is an artsy neighborhood in Tel Aviv which is becoming gentrified. The neighborhood was established outside of Jaffa in 1887, 22 years before the founding of the City of Tel Aviv, and it was the home of Novel prize laureate Shmuel Yosef Agnon and Rabbi Abraham Isaac Kook. We saw their houses. R. Roberto is raising money to build a 1,300 square meter "Schechter Institute Neve Tzedek Center", which should be ready for the public in two years. The goal is to create a "cultural-spiritual center" which would be the basis of a religious community of Conservative Jews. "the new center will joint the quiet revolution that is already underway in Tel Aviv, evident in institutions such as Yakar, Bina, Alma College, the Secular Yeshiva, Reform Judaism's Beit Daniel, and Arbib's own synagogue and midrasha, which are sprouting up and steadily expanding throughout the city." (27)

Rabbi Roberto Arbib in Neve Tzedek

After our visit with Rabbi Roberto we spent time shopping at the Nahalat Binyamin weekly arts & crafts fair. That evening, the last evening for the tour in Israel, we held a Summary discussion of the tour, then went for a farewell dinner in Tel Aviv's Yemenite Quarter.

Crafts Table, Nahalat Binyamin Crafts Fair


References:

(1) Keshet website:
http://www.keshetisrael.co.il/index.htm

(2) "Archaeology in Israel - Acco (Acre)" by Jacqueline Schaalje
http://www.jewishmag.com/30MAG/acco/acco.htm

(3) "Virtual Israel Experience: Rosh Hanikrah"
http://www.jewishvirtuallibrary.org/jsource/vie/Hanikra.html

(4) "Israel Museums: Golan Archaeological Museum"
http://ilmuseums.com/museum_eng.asp?id=89
see also
"Helium reviews: Golan Archaeological Museum, Israel"
http://www.helium.com/items/889701-golan-heights-looks-bulge

(5) "Israeli Links, The Unofficial Guide: Gamla"
http://mosaic.lk.net/g-gamla.html

(6) Queen Anne Wines Website:
http://www.queenannewine.com/golheigwin.html

(7) "The Jewish Virtual Library: Zippori"
http://www.jewishvirtuallibrary.org/jsource/Archaeology/zippori.html
see also
"The Jewish Virtual Library: Zippori National Park"
http://www.jewishvirtuallibrary.org/jsource/Society_&_Culture/geo/Zippori1.html

(8) "Wikipedia: Mount Tabor"
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Tabor

(9) "Mid East Web: Two Cultures Meet at the Ein Dor Museum"
http://www.mideastweb.org/eindormus.htm

(10) "BiblePlaces.com: Jerusalem's City of David and Area G"
http://www.bibleplaces.com/areag.htm

(11) "The Jewish Virtual Library: Jerusalem: -- The City of David" http://www.jewishvirtuallibrary.org/jsource/Archaeology/jerdavid.html

(12) "Wikipedia: Great Synagogue (Jerusalem)"
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Great_Synagogue_(Jerusalem)

(13) Website: The Jerusalem Great Synagogue
http://jerusalemgreatsynagogue.com/TEST/mezuza.htm

(14) "Gems in Israel: The Conegliano Veneto Synagogue and The U. Nahon Museum of Italian Jewish Art"
http://www.gemsinisrael.com/e_article000047896.htm

(15) Website: The Holocaust Martyrs' and Heroes' Remembrance Authority
http://www.yadvashem.org/

(16) opcite: "The New Museum"
http://www1.yadvashem.org/new_museum/overview.html

(17) opcite "The Hall of Names"
http://www1.yadvashem.org/new_museum/Galleries/gal10Hall.html

(18) opcite "Children's Memorial"
http://www1.yadvashem.org/visiting/temp_visiting/temp_index_children.html

(19) "YouTube: Jerusalem - Yad Vashem - Children's Memorial"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dU0e-egwLWo

(20) "Wikipedia: Dead Sea"
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dead_Sea

(21) "Jewish Virtual Library: Masada: Desert Fortress Overlooking the Dead Sea"
http://www.jewishvirtuallibrary.org/jsource/Archaeology/Masada1.html

(22) "Jewish Virtual Library: Masada"
http://www.jewishvirtuallibrary.org/jsource/Judaism/masada.html

(23) "Department for Jewish Zionist Education: David Ben Gurion"
http://www.jafi.org.il/education/moriya/negev/DavidBenGurion.html

(24) "Planet Ware: avda - entry on Sede Boqer"
http://www.planetware.com/negev/avdat-isr-st-av.htm

(25) "Wikipedia: Makhtesh Ramon"
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ramon_Crater

(26) "Wikipedia: Neve Tzedek
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neve_Tzedek

(27) The Jerusalem Post: "Conservative Movement hopes to build Tel Aviv center"
http://www.jpost.com/servlet/Satellite?cid=1199964914218&pagename=JPost%2FJPArticle%2FShowFull

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